A Return to Cooking

by Eric Ripert, Michael Ruhlman

ISBN-10: 1579651879
ISBN-13: 9781579651879
Region: USA
Publisher: Artisan
Publication Date: November, 2002
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Recipe Index

Recipe Page Ratingsort icon
Smoked Salmon Croque-Monsieur 3
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Salade Monique 6
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Peach and Plum Tart 7
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Warm Artichoke Salad with Barigoule Vinaigrette 19
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Chicken and Lamb Tagine with Mediterranean Spices 20
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Lemon Confit 21
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Sautéed Melon and Phyllo Crisps with Balsamic-Port Sauce 24
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Halibut with Grapes and Red Wine-Port Sauce 28
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Shellfish Ragout 29
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Poached Pears with Poire William Caramel Sauce 31
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Grilled Rack of Lamb and Cucumber Salad 35
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Cod with Local Wax Beans, Chorizo, and Soy-Sherry Sauce 36
0
Grappa-Marinated Peach and Basil Salad 37
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Spicy Tomato Consommé 42
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Striped Bass with Tomato-Verbena Water 43
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Cold Cucumber Soup 45
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Steamed Littleneck with Parmesan-Cucumber Sauce 45
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Cranberry Bean Soup with Lemon Oil 46
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Snapper with Caramelized and Braised Shallots 47
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Montauk Periwinkles with Basil Aïoli 51
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Mussels with Spicy Italian Sausage 54
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Grilled Lobster with Sauce Vierge 55
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Sautéed Baby Calamari with Pepper Oil and Garlic 58
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Pan-Roasted Monkfish with Lemon Carrots and Mint Pesto 59
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Flash-Marinated Fluke with Lemon Confit 60
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Sautéed Pompano on Pureed Chickpeas with Citrus Sauce 61
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Tapas Still Life 63
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Figs Wrapped in Bacon 64
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Black Pepper and Cognac Shrimp 64
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Roasted Duck and Foie Gras with Sautéed Melons and Figs 66
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Goat Cheese and Ricotta Terrine 69
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Basil Pesto 69
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Olive and Pesto Pasta Salad 70
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Tomato Compote 70
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Caramelized Onion Tart 71
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Arugula Salad with Goat’s Milk Yogurt Dressing 73
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Sautéed Summer Vegetables with Garlic and Herbs 76
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Marinated Mixed Grill 76
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Strawberry Soufflé 77
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Pique 96
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Ginger Oil 96
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Coconut Milk 98
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Poached Snapper with Coconut Milk and Tomatoes 101
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Mango, Passion Fruit, and Tarragon Salad 101
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Crab Salad with Chilled Gazpacho Sauce 105
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Rabbit Curry with Caribbean Garnish 106
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Black Bean and Coconut Milk Soup 108
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Citrus Gelatin with Guanabana Sauce 109
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Shrimp with fresh Coconut Milk, Calabaza, and Avocado 112
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Seared Tuna with Escabeche of Pear Tomatoes 113
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Bacalao and Tropical Root Vegetable Escabeche 114
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Caramelized Pineapple Crêpes with Crème Fraîche 115
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Snapper Ceviche 118
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Marinated Anchovies and Baby Romaine “Caesar” Salad 118
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Chicken Pot-au-Feu with Ginger-Cilantro Vermicelli 119
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Ginger-Scented Hot Chocolate 119
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Poached Spiny Lobster with Tarragon Nage 123
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Court-Bouillon 125
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Tropical Fruit en Papillote 125
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Tostones and Caviar 128
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Curried Napa Cabbage Bundles with Soy-Orange Vinaigrette 129
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Apio and Black Truffle Soup 134
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Sautéed Grouper with Glazed Onions and Bacon-Butter Sauce 135
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Banana Mille-Feuille with Gingered Chocolate Sauce 136
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Sancocho 140
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Shellfish and Chorizo in Broth 141
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Paprika-Spiked Beef Tenderloin and Eggplant 141
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Blood Sausage and Yuca Shepherd’s Pie 142
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Paella 144
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Rice Pudding with Sautéed Bananas and Chocolate Sauce 145
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Sautéed Monkfish with “Sofrito” in Dende Oil 147
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Warmed Snapper with Ginger Oil 148
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Marinated Conch 148
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Rare-Seared Tuna with Ratatouille 152
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Sautéed Mahi Mahi with Okra and Citrus Vinaigrette 153
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Spring Vegetable Salad with Poached Egg and Herb Vinaigrette 166
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Veal Chops with Morels and Herb Butter Sauce 167
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Portobello and Eggplant Tart 171
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Lobster Salad with Mango and Foie Gras 174
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Fennel-Scented Panna Cotta with Wild Strawberries 175
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Barely Cooked Salmon with Parmesan Polenta and Mushrrom Consommé 178
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Poached Scallops with Caviar 179
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Salmon, Crab, and Scallops Chowder 180
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Poached Beef and Veal Shank with Herbed Vinaigrette and Celeriac Salad 182
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Sautéed Pibales with Pepper Oil 185
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Frogs’ Legs with Parsley Sauce and Sautéed Frisée 186
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Sautéed Sepia with Chorizo Broth and Spaghetti 187
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Arugula Vichyssoise 191
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Smoked Salmon on a Cucumber Crown with Crème Fraîche-Dill Sauce 192
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Apricot and Peach Crumble with Rhubarb Puree 193
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Sautéed Turbot with Creamy Jasmine Rice and Coriander Broth 198
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Pan-Seared Skirt Steak with Herbed-Butter Frites and Bitter Greens 199
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Pan-Seared Muscovy Duck Breast with Cherries and Rhubarb Puree 200
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Seared Tuna Paillard with Spring Vegetables 205
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Vinaigrette 205
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Tuna Tartare with Endive 206
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Barely Cooked Shrimp with Bok Choy and Coriander Broth 207
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Curried Peekytoe Crab and Granny Smith Apple Napoleon 212
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Lamb Tartare and Creamy Cucumber Salad 213
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Roasted Chicken with Poached Egg, Asparagus, and Truffle Jus 216
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Roasted Whole Turbot with Spring Vegetables and Truffle Sauce 217
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Guinea Hen with Artichokes, Foie Gras, and Sautéed Broccoli Rabe 220
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Roasted Leg of Lamb and Garlic with Goat Cheese Mashed Potatoes 222
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Shiitake-Stuffed Squab with Coriander-Infused Jus 224
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Lamb Shoulder and Portobello-Spinach Ravioli with Mushroom Jus 226
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Tiramisù 229
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Chocolate, Ginger, and Coffee Pot de Crème with Anisette Cream 230
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Pets de Nonne 231
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Chocolate Ravioli in Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce 232
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Goat Cheese Marinated in Oil and Rosemary 235
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Strawberries Floating in Red Wine 235
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Stuffed Lamb Saddle with Lamb Jus and Spring Vegetables 238
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Risotto Carbonara with White Wine and Black Truffles 251
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Fire Roasted Vegetables and Goat Cheese “Parfait” 253
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White and Black Bean Ragout with a Variety of Sausages 258
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Braised Oxtails in Cabbage Leaves 262
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Grilled Magrets with Arugula and Cranberry 264
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Fire-Roasted Pheasant à  la Ficelle with Truffled Lentils 268
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Duck Ham 269
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Crayfish Ravioli with Mushrooms and Truffle Butter Sauce 272
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Palombe (Wild Squab) with Cabbage Confit and Porcini 274
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Pear Tart à  la Mode 275
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Foie Gras Pot-au-Feu with Truffle Juice and Goose Broth 278
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Roasted Goose with Sautéed Potatoes and Dandelion Salad 279
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Pork and Liver Pâté en Croûte 281
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Braised Veal Cheeks with Wild Mushrooms and Potato Puree 282
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Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Grapefruit 286
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Snails in a Spicy Tomato Sauce 287
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Foie Gras-Quince Terrine with Raisin English Muffins 288
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Ash-Baked Potatoes with Smoked Salmon and Caviar 289
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Walnut and Armagnac Frozen with Wine-Poached Prunes 293
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Juniper-Crusted Venison “Carpaccio” 295
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Venison Loin with Parsnip-Celeriac Puree and Cranberries 296
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Cabbage and Apple Sauce 297
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Roasted Garlic Soup 301
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Garlic-Sage Broth with Alphabet Pasta 303
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Pumpkin, Acorn, and Butternut Squash Soup with Nutmeg and Walnut Oil 305
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Cauliflower Soup with Smoked Scallops 306
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Lobster and Capon Soup with Potatoes and Leeks 307
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Lobster Stock and Consommé 310
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Roasted Capon with Bread Stuffing 314
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Green Salad 315
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Buttermilk Custard Tart with Mixed Berries 315
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Rutabaga Gratin 317
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Cauliflower Gratin 317
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George Davis’s Pancakes 318
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Publishers Information

About A Return to Cooking

Publisher Web Link: http://www.workman.com/artisanbooks/

Spontaneous meals at home with friends form the foundation of this dazzling collection of recipes that are easy enough for novices yet so inspired they could be restaurant-worthy. The result of a rare sabbatical from this famed chef’s 4-star kitchen, A Return to Cooking is “an unprecedented look at the creative process of one of the world’s best chefs” (Anthony Bourdain) as Eric Ripert prepares simple meals for friends in different locations, using ingredients at hand.

Expect to be enchanted by Eric’s lack of pretense and his irrepressible joie - a chef who likes American mayonnaise and alphabet pasta, but can also lecture on subjects as diverse as the power of vinaigrette and the merits of Tabasco, shallots, and coconut milk. And every bit as fascinating is the bird’s-eye view of the magic that occurs when decades of cooking experience coalesce with the forces of a chef’s intuition.  (http://www.workman.com/)

Author Information

About Eric Ripert

Author Web Link: http://aveceric.com/

Eric Ripert is grateful for his early exposure to two cuisines—that of Antibes, France, where he was born, and of Andorra, a small country just over the Spanish border, where he moved as a young child. His family instilled their own passion for food in the young Ripert, and at the age of 15, he left hometo attend culinary school in Perpignan. At 17, he moved to Paris and cooked at the legendary La Tour D’Argent before taking a position at the Michelin three-starred Jamin. After fulfilling his military service, Ripert returned to Jamin under Joel Robuchon to serve as chef poissonier.

In 1989, Ripert seized the opportunity to work under Jean-Louis Palladin as sous-chef at Jean Louis at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. Ripert moved to New York in 1991, working briefly as David Bouley’s sous-chef before Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze recruited him as chef for Le Bernardin. Ripert has since firmly established himself as one of New York’s—and the world’s—great chefs.

In 1995, at just 29 years old, Ripert earned a four-star rating from the The New York Times. Ten years later and for the fourth consecutive time, Le Bernardin again earned the The New York Times’ highest rating of four stars, becoming the only restaurant to maintain this superior status for this length of time, without ever dropping a star.

In 1997, GQ named Le Bernardin the best restaurant in America, and in 2007, the magazine named Le Bernardin one of “Seven Food Temples of the World.” In 2005, New York Magazine declared Le Bernardin the #1 restaurant in the city, awarding it 5 five stars in its inaugural restaurant rating issue—a position it still holds today. Also in 2005, Bon Appétit declared Ripert’s Butter-Poached Lobster with Tarragon and Champagne its “Dish of the Year.”

Le Bernardin continues to receive universal critical acclaim for its food and service. The Michelin Guide, which made its New York debut in 2005, honored Chef Ripert and Le Bernardin with its highest rating of 3 three stars in 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008. The Zagat Guide has recognized the restaurant as the “Best Food” in New York City for the last eight consecutive years. In 1998, the James Beard Foundation named Le Bernardin “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year” and Eric Ripert “Top Chef in New York City.” In 1999, the restaurant received the “Outstanding Service” award from the Beard Foundation, and in 2003, the Foundation foundation named Ripert “Outstanding Chef in the United States.” In 2009 Ripert was granted the rank of Chevallier in France’s Légion d’Honneur.

Ripert has served as guest judge (and “fan favorite”) on Bravo’s Top Chef for two seasons and has appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman, The Charlie Rose Show, The Ellen DeGeneres Show, TODAY, Live with Regis & and Kelly, and The Martha Stewart Show. In fall 2008, Ripert published On The Line with Artisan, his second book with the publisher. Ripert will star in his own television series, AVEC ERIC, airing on public television in September of 2009.

Ripert is the chair of City Harvest’s Food Council, working to bring together New York’s top chefs and restaurateurs to raise funds and increase the quality and quantity of food donations to New York’s neediest. When not in the kitchen, Ripert enjoys good tequila and peace and quiet. He lives on the Upper East Side and Sag Harbor with his wife and young son.  (http://aveceric.com/)

Cookbooks by Eric Ripert


About Michael Ruhlman

Author Web Link: http://ruhlman.com/

The best things in life happen when you get carried away. I went into a cooking school to write about what it means to be a chef, and instead I became a cook, got a job line cooking, lucked into one of the great restaurants of the world to work with the chef on his book, and I kept on writing about food. I got carried away, and it’s made all the difference.

The facts are these: Born 1963 in Cleveland, graduated Duke in 1985 with a BA in literature, worked at The New York Times as a copyboy where I managed to slip some stories into most sections of the paper, departed after fewer than two years to pursue a desultory life of writing, travel and odd jobs, returning to Cleveland with my wife, Donna, a newspaper and magazine photographer, in 1991. Found work at a local magazine covering arts and cultural scene and here began writing about chefs and cooking.

My first book, Boys Themselves (1996), revealed life at an all-boy day school that was defiantly all-boys at a time when anything all-boys was considered toxic and anything all-girls was great for girls.

A committed cook since fourth grade, I proposed to the Culinary Institute of America, the oldest and most influential professional cooking school in the country, that I be allowed into its kitchen classrooms in order to write a narrative of how the school trains professional chefs. The school agreed, and I wrote The Making of a Chef (1997), rereleased in 2009 in a new paperback edition.

I became so fascinated by the work of the professional cook and the culture of the restaurant kitchen that I continued to pursue the work and wrote a book about chefs and cooking, The Soul of a Chef (2000). I co-wrote The French Laundry Cookbook (1999) with Thomas Keller at the same time, and he and I subsequently wrote a food column for the Los Angeles Times for two years.

In February 1999, I moved with my family to Martha’s Vineyard to research and report on life at a yard making plank-on-frame boats for the book Wooden Boats: In Pursuit of the Perfect Craft at an American Boatyard (2001). In October 2000, I began work at the Cleveland Clinic’s Children’s Hospital for the book Walk on Water (2003). I wrote it concurrently with A Return to Cooking (2002), with Eric Ripert, chef-owner of Le Bernardin, the Manhattan four-star restaurant.

Other books include House: A Memoir, about the purchase and renovation of a 1901 house in Cleveland and an exploration of the nature of home in our vagabond culture, and The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity. Other cookbooks include Bouchon, written with Keller and the others from the French Laundry Cookbook team, about French comfort food, and Under Pressure, the first American cookbook to explore the possibilities of sous vide cooking. I was a contributor to the Alinea, Grant Achatz’s tour de force on the new new cuisine. I wrote Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing–a thinly veiled love song to the pig, to animal fat and salt, sausages, confits, pates, terrines–with my friend, the Michigan chef Brian Polcyn.

I have been on several television shows, “Cooking Under Fire” on PBS, and, on the Food Network, I was a judge on the “Next Iron Chef,” appear occasionally as a judge on “Iron Chef America,” and have been a featured guest on the Travel Channel’s “Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations,” Las Vegas and Cleveland episodes.

In 2007 I published The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Craft for Every Kitchen, “an indispensable compendium of cooking information for both professional and amateur cooks constitutes a precise, unpretentious, unencumbered culinary handbook” (Booklist). I realized one day leaving a food writers symposium that I’d spent so much time in kitchen and so much time with the country’s best chefs that I had a huge amount of knowledge about cooking, information that would be valuable to anyone who cared about cooking, from professional chefs to committed home cooks. Needing a structure for all this information I turned to one of my favorite books about the craft of writing, Strunk and White’s The Elements of Style. The book contains essays on the fundamentals of cooking and a deeply opinionated glossary of important cooking terms we all need to know.

My most recent book is Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, a book devoted to understanding the relationships between our most basic ingredients and how those relationships form the backbone of the craft of cooking.

This fall two new cookbooks I’ve had a hand in will be published: Thomas Keller: At Home with Ad Hoc, the fourth from this team, and Symon Says: Live to Cook, a cookbook from my friend, fellow Clevelander, Michael Symon, chef-restaurateur (Lola/Lolita) and an Iron Chef Food on Network’s “Iron Chef America.” Donna and I continue to live in Cleveland Heights with our two kids, writing, shooting and cooking.  (http://blog.ruhlman.com/)

Cookbooks by Michael Ruhlman